Blue Crush Re-Make
Saturday was quite eventful! Devin and I met up with a group of our friends at Pipeline. So me, Jonna, Meg, & Katie decided we could hang where our husbands were surfing. (We stayed on the shoulder.) When I caught my first wave of the session, it was such an adrenaline rush! It was pretty shallow & I could see the reef through the clear water as I rode down the face of the wave. It was so intense! I had a lot of super fun waves that followed, but the first one gave me the biggest rush. It was scary when I got caught on the inside a couple of times when the set waves came through. I really thought I was going to die. I couldn't duck dive either of them and I had to ditch my board. It was so freaky!
So after a wave, I was paddling back to my friends on the shoulder and I see BJ Penn of the UFC! I started talking with him how my husband and I were just watching one of his fights earlier on t.v. (Devin is a major fan) I told him "It was the fight against....oh, what's his name, the guy that you kissed at the end of the fight...". He started laughing, "oh, Matt Hughes." Then he told me he had a fight coming up on May 24th. I wished him luck and then kept paddling to my friends. It was so cool! He was super nice.
No comments:
Post a Comment